ROCK CLIMBING ON SUGARLOAF
Sugarloaf (Pao de Acucar) is a fantastic mountain in Rio. It is tall and with a high quality granite. Rock climbing on Sugarloaf is amazing! Many of its routes are among the most classic routes of Rio de Janeiro and Brazil, like Via dos Italianos (The Italian Route).
Climbing Via dos Italianos
If you are comfortable climbing 5.10/6a multi-pitch, we suggest you climb Via dos Italianos, listed as one of the 50 classic routes in Brazil. With pitch after pitch of amazing climbing in a spectacular location, this is one of the most beautiful routes in Rio de Janeiro.
The first two pitches are impressive due to the verticality, good rock and aesthetic moves. It’s sustained 5.10/6a for 80 meters. These pitches involve face climbing. After the crux pitches, there are two possible link-ups: straight up to the summit or traversing left for 50 meters to join the last three pitches of the Secundo route. The Italianos-Secundo link up is 270 meters long. See our drone video below! It takes about six hours to hike to the base, climb, enjoy the summit and return (partially by free cable car, partially on a forest trail). Via dos Italianos and Secundo are in shadow in the morning.
The Italian Route is a route for experienced rock climbers due to difficulty, length and exposure.
One should not underestimate the grading or the length of the Italian Route, as Rio de Janeiro has a strong grading. Those who are not used to smearing on granite and multi-pitch could have difficulties, and it is better to be prepared to climb sustained 5.10/6a. If in doubt, you can choose an easier route on Sugarloaf, we suggest the Coringa Route (5.8/5a) or the Costão Route (5.7/4).
Climbing on Sugarloaf
Coringa is the best 5.8/5a on Sugarloaf Mountain, which makes the route extremely popular. It is 100 meters long, with three pitches, one of them almost vertical. It’s located in an amazing area between vertical walls, the forest and the sea. After climbing Coringa, we hike and climb (5.7/4) to the summit of Sugarloaf by the Costão Route. One should also not underestimate the grade of Coringa (5.8/5a), as its holds are sometimes very small and the climbing is quite technical, in addition Rio de Janeiro has a strong grading. It is also a route for experienced rock climbers.
The only time of year when we do not recommend the Coringa route is in the summer, between December and March, because at this time, Coringa is in the sun all day and the wall becomes quite hot. The best choice for the summer is the Costão Route (5.7/4), which is in the shade in the afternoon and has a beautiful line along the Sugarloaf ridge, with some climbing parts.
Other beautiful routes, similar to Coringa, are on Cantagalo and Corcovado hills. In the shade in the morning and afternoon respectively. Both are a pleasant place in the summer.
Climb with us in Rio!
Our Instructors and Climbing Guides are highly experienced professionals, including Flavio Daflon, author of Sugarloaf rock climbing guidebook.
We offer private guiding and we provide all of the equipment. The date is your choice, just make a reservation via WhatsApp. Companhia da Escalada – mountain climbing school and guide service in Rio since 1995!
The topo of Via dos Italianos, Secundo and the topo of Coringa route are in the Urca Climbing Guidebook, a publication by Companhia da Escalada. With 240 pages, 369 routes and hundreds of topos on Sugarloaf Mountain, Morro da Urca, Morro da Babilônia and surroundings. It includes sports routes, multi-pitch and traditional routes.